martes, 20 de diciembre de 2011

20 de diciembre 2011

steven and fougete were waiting for us outside our door, in the sunshine at 8 30 this morning. they and jerry, lenore and mike were going to catch a bus or colectivo to the lovely, small ruin of Dainzu today, and walk to Tlacochuaya. Dainzu, which means Hill of the Organ Cactus in Zapotec. There is partially restored ceremonial center and many unexcavated mounds. At around A.D.300 the town supported 1,000 inhabitants.  There are more than 30 bas-reliefs of ball players draped with leather head, arm and torso protectors. There is also a tomb, with a jaguar's head with bat-like features, may represent a composite jaguar-bat god. (Moon publications Oaxaca)
   This is one of our favorite walks. Dainzu is always enjoyable to roam around, close your eyes, and imagine life almost 2,000 years ago --which is what I do whenever I visit the ruins.
   Then we walk through farmer's fields for a couple miles to the beautiful church in San Jeronimo Tlacachuaya, the 16th Century Templo y Ex-Convento de San Jeronimo. It has a white baroque facade and a large fig tree. It was restored in 1991. The atrium has three chapels, where conversions of the indigenous people took place. It is estimated that 5,000 could have been assembled there..
   The church is well-known for its beautiful organ. You ascend a narrow strairway to the balcony where the beautifully decorated organ sits.
 The church can be seen as we are walking, so we know the way.

Many of us could not go today, so Jerry promises to lead another walk in a few weeks. When we arrive at our destination, we always look for a comedor to have lunch together.

I did not go since early this evening I will be going to the Synagogue outside Viguera, near Etla. I did not want to take a chance that I would miss the trip!

So I walked to La Noria mercado with the group and said adios from there.  I had a lot of shopping to do to get ready for the big comida we will have tomorrow with Julieta, Sarai, Sonya Esmeralda and Rafael.
Gail Schacter will join us also! For postre, Lenore and Mike will come. Julieta is making the main dish and frijoles. I will buy all the ingredients for guacamole, salad and a large Gelatina from Quemen!

It is always enjoyable to see our juice lady and dificult to pass up, but not today. I found limas from a woman selling a few verduras; the rest I purchased from the large vendor in the rear. It is so pleasurable buying vegetables and fruits....and quickly passing all the meat vendors. The chocolate vendor reached out to give me a spoon and it was luscious....very difficult to pass up, but i did not want to be home alone with that! and then the bakeries ---the rolls with their pulpy middles- yum!..and many look delicious but the taste is disappointing so i must keep that in mind as I pass them.

I had carried my strong, blue Frida Kahlo bag to carry the bananas, tomatoes, about 18 avocadoes (2 kilos, julieta said for guacamole!), limones and, i went back for fresas, strawberries.

...and then it was hard to pass my favorite empanada makers (with quesillo, flores de calabaza and champinones).

Outside, on the street, vendors are selling flowers, tortillas and some prepared foods like chili rellenos, blandas (large tortillas), rice and beans. Yesterday, we purchased some tortillas from an indigenous woman. Jerry mentioned how amazed he is that they remain warm. I asked her, and she showed us that they are held in two canastas, baskets, which preserves the heat.

Tomorrow, I must come back to this area to purchase some flowers to make our table pretty, and for a large gelatina from Quemen bakery. The last gelatina that I purchased for Gabriel's birthday was delicous! The lower half was made with milk; the upper half was filled with different kinds of fruits.....and then there is always some sweet light cream which makes it even better.

It was early morning so the streets were bustling.  Music pours out of the apartments and especially the parking lots (we know too well)- often with that rhythmic fun beat, words of love or sorrow, and some good horn.

I met lovely, amable Lily, walking also, who lives around the corner with the ferocious dog that has, without doubt, cut my life short from his sudden terror - jumping up and ladrando in the loudest, meanest voice.Lily owns a baby clothes store; she used to have an internet place that we would frequent. Jerry mentioned how amazing it is the number of small stores here; there is a huge population, of course, but it does seem that many people open small shops and we wonder how they can afford to. Rent and maintanence must be low and certainly no insurance or handicap accessibility necessary!

The sky is always so incredibly beautiful, baby blue, or a deeper shade of blue, and the curve of the forested butte North of us, a couple puffy, cumulus clouds resting atop it --exquisite.

I stopped at the tiendita on the corner and saw the senora's warm smile. Ruben, who used to work there most of the time, has a tos (cough) so is taking some time off.

Our plans for the next few days:

After I finish writing, I will go to Santo Domingo Cultural Center to see their photography exhibit, other exhibits and peruse the wonderful libreria (bookstore).

Tomorrow the comida with Julieta and family and our America & Canadian friends. I must make a holiday card and get some treats and pesos for Julieta to take home. Since we are sponsoring the two girls for school (through the Oaxaca Streetchildren organization), and that bill of $500 U.S. will have to be paid in February (besides another $275 for Carlos Daniel, the boy we have been sponsoring for 5 years), we will be giving them $25.00 for their holiday food and little gifts We brought down  light jackets with hoods for Julieta and the girls, and a fleece vest and sweatshirt for Rafael, which takes care of half the gifts for them. I must also find a way to talk about the $100 Mateo and Mary have allocated to help Rafael. How can we make it truly benefit him? He is not attending school regularly so we will have to decide to either give it to him if he does make progress, or give it directly to the organization. Mateo has left it up to me to decide.

Tomorrow afternoon we could have gone to Barry and Jacque Scheinberg's Chanukah party, but we have our guests. They were very kind to invite us.  Perhaps next year.

Tomorrow evening, Gail will sing Christmas, Chanukah and other holiday songs at the library Solstice Party. it should be fun! We will walk up with Lenore and Mike. They stopped by yesterday - just arrived Sunday - and it was great to have them in our midst again. Aome went to Carmelita's with us for comida and then back to our place and we all got to talk with Lenore and Mike, who took a short trip to Cuernavaca, which they did not find pleasing - surprised.

Thursday we will go to Los Naranjos with new friends, Steven and Fougete, It will be fun to get to know them. She has lived in California since the 80's, but they are thinking of moving to Massachusetts soon!

At 5 pm Thursday we will meet Mafer and the family at Santo Domingo to watch the Guelaguetza for a short parade on their way to Jalatlaco. Then we will go someplace to enjoy together!

Friday is Dia de los Rabanos! (day of the radishes) My favorite event!

Saturday and Sunday, Christmas Day, no plans yet. Jerry had agreed with me that we will not go to a fancy dinner at a restaurant on the 25th....it is a very quiet, peaceful day so it would be fun to take a long walk and, perhaps, eat ourselves or with friends at our house.

Reviewing....

Sinuhe David, the young man who would like to do an intercambio with us, wrote so we should see him soon. Jerry's great idea about including Mafer - or by herself - she would like!

Yesterday, Susan was moving from the small apartment to Rita and Wayne's! Her mother will be visiting soon. I asked her if she will be back again next Fall (usually comes for one or two months). She told me that she is going to try to start a Mezcal business in California! She has a local partner who has been taking her to the Palenques - mezcal makers - to find out about and taste the different mezcals. She, and another resident here, Savalda, have had mezcal tasting parties with groups of friends! Susan says her mother has been worried about her partying --she told us about tango dancing unti 5 am last week! and all the tasting of mezcal!...but she is 45! what else should she be doing? One of the mezcal business owners was very rude with her friends, but began flirting with her outrageously, and finally made a proposal - she should marry him.  But she told him that her business partner is her boyfriend (and told him at the same time!) So she is calling his mezcal "prometido" - promised, like engaged - which has caught on with her friends!

Jerry mentioned to me that Gabriel had suggested that he sell mezcal. Since liquor in Oregon is state regulated, he never thought about it or had the slightest idea how to market it.

On Friday, Gail and I met at the Textile museo to hear a marvelous lecture about weaving in Oaxaca. She brought with her Jan, also from Victoria, who just joined her Spanish language class. Eric, the director, and perfectly bilingual, talked about the great diversity of weaving materials and dyes in Oaxaca - to be compared only with Peru. He had samples of the materials from the most elemental. I have notes so will write a separate piece about it. He did mention his own experience - born and raised in Teotitlan del Valle, the most famous and popular weaving village in Oaxaca. He began weaving at 12, although children begin helping in many ways from the time they are 6 or so.  His parents wanted him to use synthetic dyes, but he was very stubborn because of the often toxic and caustic results of using them. So he spent a long time devising formulas for natural dyes and, ultimately, his parents agreed and use them now!

Gail and I went to El Jardin for tacos in salsa verde (Jerry's favorite) with crumpled cheese and cream and a fresh roll. Very tasty and only 33 pesos! It is always fun sitting as observers on the zocalo - people watching, musicians, vendors of finely handcrafted shawls and bags to head scratchers from China :(. We had about an hour to get to the Teatro Alcaha, the jewel of an 1800s theatre that was beautifully refurbished a few years ago. We were told to get there at 6:30, a half hour before the concert of the "Orquesta de Camara de San Jacinto". Well, we arrived ten minutes before, afraid that there would be no seats.
But the theatre was only sparsely filled! We were able to go upstairs for a box seat!  From our high perch, we noticed Jan sitting downstairs. Gail was persistent in calling her name until she saw us! She is very nice, and lives in our complex, in the small apartment on the end!

Well, the concert finally began. After the first piece, Gail said "Let's go!" Jan held her back for one more piece and then we quietly escaped. It was truly painful to hear - like my first practice session with the cello!
Gail was hysterical --"these are not our kids, we've paid our dues, let's get out of here"! It was the first time ever that I felt that way, after attending many children's performances!

After taking many photos of the entryway, I was ready to leave. Gail decided to return to the Zocalo where friends of hers congregate at the Italian Coffee Company every night. Jan and I walked home - so nice to have someone to walk with in the evenings! But when we got to Arteaga and Fiallo, to the Defensa Church, there were lots of people gathered and the Tuna of Antequera group of musicians and singers in their beautiful black robes. Jan asked me if i had heard them before. yes, on the street. well, she had listened to a performance inside a church and enjoyed immensely. So I waited with her. One of the performers saw me taking photos and asked if I want one of the group! My little camera actually took a good picture at night!

The music and acrobats, the children, also, singing and swaying, was a wonderful thing to see!  Some of the instruments are very unique, making sounds of large seeds, for example. Some of the music and singing was like Klezmer. I was told of the origin of the Tunas but must review. The congregants were enjoying, many left, holding candles, to parade through the streets. Some had flower-like holders, others Chanukah candles!  We were offered a candle and I was amazed that it was identical to the traditional Chanukah candle.

I was ready to leave after a while and Jan left also. She is here with her partner Chad, who plays the banjo!

Next writing:  Stamp Museum exhibit of Flores que no son Flores; Soledad Church Guelaguetza dances and the Dance of the Old Men in celebration of the Virgin of Soledad; walking to Xochimilco with Aome and meeting her very nice friends, Katharine, Denise and Cynthia(just arrived from the Poconos, Jim thorpe, PA with her grandson) and who makes jewelry - must meet Rita. We stopped at Marcos Perez 111 where Donna lives, to see the apartment she is renting, but she was not home.

The most wonderful dance performance was done by Luisa, in her group, and two other groups at the Fabrica de Hielo on Gonzalez Ortega between Hidalgo y Independencia.  ..more on that later.

I had better leave --casa de cultura, lettuce, cookies and little gifts.












viernes, 9 de diciembre de 2011

Cesar, un Artista y Artesano Renacentista (a Renaissance Artist and Artisan)

After the final surge to get things put away neatly and create an inviting apartment for our dear friends' - Julieta y familia - visit later (I am the same person here as in Eugene - the bookshelf covered with a wide assortment of art,  photos, and other paraphenalia: a loving photo of our Tia Maria cuddled under the covers with Jerry,photos of our wonderful family in a photo album, children's paintings - Sonya Esmeralda and Rafael's scenes of Oaxacan mountains and pine trees, and a sweet little puppy and sweet "Te Amo"paintings; drawings from our Luisa, Mafer and Gabriel's daughter and our sponored Oaxacan Streetchildren and their family and friends; origami from some of the kids; a Valentine globo (balloon) on a stick with "te quiero" from Sonya; a fluffy tiny sheep from Rosalba; paper cut-out flags in orange red, green and yellow from the huge Guelaguetza Fiesta attented with Juan;  and gifts from adult friends - barb's red poppy, Joy's painting of the Virgin of Soledad and of the Mezcal bottle "Para todo mal, Mezcal; Para todo Bien, Tambien", and Bryan and Judy's card with a photo by Rosa Blum of rebosos of blue, yellow, red, gold, magenta, narrow and wide stripes and solid, with wispy fringes.)

...we finally got out of the door to pick up Jerry's belt loop (it broke and fell into the toilet just as we were leaving Eugene at 5 a.m!.) from the shoe repairman on Gonzalez Ortega, shop for groceries at La Noria Mercado, and purchase some fresh, authentic tortillas from the Native women who sit outside the Hotel Camba on Xicotencatyl.

We were very happy that Cesar was in when we arrived since it was "Siesta" time. Businesses sometimes close from 2 p.m. to 5 p.m. to eat the hearty meal of the day and take a siesta although it is becoming less frequent now. They  open at 5 p.m. until 8 p.m.

Cesar was reading a book, so he was taking a small break, but was happy to give us the perfectly repaired loop. He sewed a piece of leather to join the two ends instead of stapling it, as it was done before. Now the loop will probably outlive the belt!

While standing there as Jerry and he made the exchange of dinero, I noticed a huge collaged screen. Cesar had glued various photos and articles  of artists, musicians and dancers onto a board to create privacy. I asked him about it and he then went on to tell us that he is a shoe repairman but that is only one of his pursuits. He showed me the most beautiful silver Filigree earrings that he was working on (2,200 pesos - about $200 U.S.), the journal that he had made and  the cloth-covered leather heels.  He also teaches classes at the university on Theater Arts!

Cesar invited us to return soon. He plans to clean and clear his tiny space, making it into a comfortable place to gather! We know that he has a lot of work to do, but it will be exciting to see what this very special man creates.

Then we went to the market - where we usually get empanadas with champinones, flor de calabaza y quesillo - a large tortilla filled with mushrooms, squash flowers and Oaxacan cheese - and a GRANDE jugo de naranja (fresh squeezed orange juice) but today was purely for buying bananas, the only thing left needed, for our guests.  Well, thirty minutes later we left with our large bag full of canela molida (ground cinnamon), aguacates, tomates, ham, huevos (eggs) one kilo cacajuates (peanuts) and pasas (raisins). It is such a pleasure to buy from individuals at a mercado rather than a supermercado (supermarket). There are smiles, personal help asking questions about the products and gratifude .

We finally made it home shortly before our guests arrived. For those new to our life in Oaxaca, Julieta had a cafe across the street from our apartment complex for a few years, Jerry began eating breakfast there, and i struck up a friendship with Julieta and her family! They had to leave the cafe since they were not earning enough to keep it going but we kept in contact. Julieta and I have adopted each other as hermanas (sisters) and Jerry and I are Madrina and Padrino to the three children.

  Julieta and Sarai came first; we hugged and kissed individually then all together - yes, I grabbed Jerry into the circle, too. I brought out yogurt and cinnamon, apples and bananas, salad, peanuts and cookies, jugo de durazno (peach juice - heavenly), Good Earth tea and pure water. The good news is that the new governor, Gambino Cue, has begun to give scholarships to low-income families! Sarai receives over 800 pesos monthly (about $75) which may not sound like much to us, but is a huge help to her and her family. Last year, we were very fortunate to get she and her sister into the Oaxaca Streetchildren organization so with the governor's new program and our help she is able to continue at the university!

Soon, Sarai's tia (aunt) arrived, Petra, and her 5 year old son, Andres. Petra is  the sister of her father and Julieta's husband, Severiano.Petra's husband, whom we heard was a wonderful man, was killed in the protest of 2006. An architect, warm husband and father to his baby boy, is greatly missed. Petra has a book that was written in honor of him, in Spanish, English and French, that she will bring next time. She is selling the book for over 600 pesos, making a hefty profit for herself to help, with other small jobs, to support herself and her young son. Petra told us that the governments has offered 20,000 pesos to help her, as a widow, but she will not accept it since money cannot make up for her husband's death. Julieta told us that she thought Petra should take the money to keep in the bank for Andres, for his education, if needed in the future. With the terrible sadness, Petra and Andres are very fortunate to have a large extended family - 8 brothers and sisters - that are devoted and close. Julieta, besides selling rotisserie chickens, and Severiano repairing refridgerators, care for Andres whenever Petra needs help.

On a lighter note, we perused the stack of photos I had made from Severiano's mother's 70th birthday party last year. We had the honor of being invited to the huge party at his mother and father's home in a small village, Totolapan, about 1.5 hours from Oaxaca, just east of Mitla. We were picked up early in the morning, and arrived home shortly before midnight! It was a day full of preparing and eating a big feast, talking and dancing.. I'll never forget Jerry volunteering to carry a huge, thousand-pound speaker to the dance area, not knowing that it was up a steep hill! Thankfully, he was rescued by a couple of young guys! We were happy to be included in such a close family event full of babies and young children and people of all ages who had come from their villages and cities to celebrate.  Jerry smiled a lot and spoke with a couple guys who could speak English....and he enjoyed the cerveza and mezcal! The men and women were separated most of the time, the women busily helping prepare the meal and watching the children besides lots of talking; the men mostly talked and drank together. Two of the brothers were great DJ's, and performers, making the mountaintop rock!

Sarai took us on a tour of the area, the beautiful little chapel and the surrounding countryside of rolling hills and pine-forested mountains. There are huge expanses of wild succulent plants growing in the arid soil as well as small streams with flowering plants nearby. We hiked for a while under the great blue sky.

Elena, one of her tias (aunts) es muy Catoloca - very religious Catholic. She told Sarai that I was okay, even though I am not Catholic, because Jesus was Jewish!

When I told Sarai that I had lots of photos and a photo album for her abuelitos (grandparents) and copies for all the family, she said "aren't you coming this year?" I said no. These photos and photo album were a gift for the family to thank them for inviting us to one of their most important celebrations. I was glad, however, that she did not press me further. It was truly special to share that day last year, but family events are hard to share with strangers, at times.  The family was very welcoming and warm but it was a very long day and night.

Rafael, Sarai's brother, is in high school but not doing well. The Oaxaca Streetchildren has an imposed limit, by the government, of two children per family, so he cannot become a part of that organization until Sarai leaves. Julieta is a very strong mother who wants her children to be educated and have choices more than anything.  She is stumped by what to do for Rafael, whose friends leave school instead of attending classes.
My son, Mateo, gave me $100.00 to donate to the organization. I asked if I could use that to help Rafael and he said I could. I will speak with Cliff, the part-time director,who helped create the organization,in the late 1980s, for his advice.

Andres colored a stack full of drawings - my favorite gift! It is obvious that he is loved and cherished.

After a warm, lovely evening of catching up, we planned our next get-together on December 21. We will have Julieta and the three kids (Severiano does not fell comfortable coming to our apartment) for dinner on December 21. She will cook a pork dish for Jerry (milanesa de cerdo) and the family, black beans, guacamole and tortillas and salsa for me.

After 4 hours, we parted with more kisses and hugs.

martes, 6 de diciembre de 2011

martes, 6 de diciembre 2011

"I must return to Portland from Oaxaca to take two classes in Spanish to complete my degree requirements - really smart requirement!" said Mandy Elder at the end of her presentation on "Exploring Oaxacan Gender Roles through Photography" She has been living in Oaxaca since June, organizing a group of young women at the Learning Center since October, using PhotoVoice. The Learning Center was begun by Gary Titus, who purchased a building in which young, hard-working and tenacious middle-school age through college students get help in obtaining an education. The students come from the rural areas as well as the periphery of Oaxaca. Gary also rents rooms in the building to use the money to support the students.

Mandy presented some statistics about Oaxaca:  60% of Oaxaquenos live in rural areas; there are 16 different indigenous groups; 20% of Oaxaqueno homes have dirt floors - not including refugees or temporary residents; average level of educational attainment is 6 years for females over 15,  7 years for males.

Mandy's group of 10 females, from 16 up to early twenties? is run by a 19 year old who is very knowledgeable about women's issues. They  chose three villages to travel to about 30 to 40 minutes outside of Oaxaca: Teotitlan del Valle, Tlacaloula and San Agustin Etla. In each village they asked questions, and took photos, of some local women. They asked about gender equality, machismo, importance of education, the role of women, premarital sex and reproductive issues.

In Teotitlan, one of the unmarried women said that she did not want to get married because she saw how her mother and other women were treated. The mother shared with them the weaving processes. When asked what the major changes are in her village, she told the interviewers (translated from Zapotec) that the changes she dislikes the most are the wearing of jeans instead of traditional clothing, and the use of computers and cell phones.
In the other villages, the women who were vendors at the market felt that the fact that they were there selling, and not kept in the home, was evidence of their empowerment. Others may not have continued their education because there was no high school in their village. Some young women in villages where there were people who had left to go to the big city seemed very bored knowing that there was a world of opportunity beyond their village.
Many of the mature women talked with pride about all their children, but also with sadness since most live far away.
The young women from the Learning Center talked  most about the very elderly woman sitting on the ground, barefoot, selling black beans. How does  a person end up like that? Why doesn't she have family to take care of her? How does she manage to sell her beans? They found out that she takes buses from village to village on market days.
Shocking to Mandy was the fact that most of these young women had never been to these villages so close to Oaxaca. After the presentation there were questions and input from the audience. I spoke about the fact that our Oaxaca Streetchildren had never been to some of the local museums and beautiful colonial buildings of their city!
After the presentation, Cynthia Roderick came up to me to ask about the children that we sponsor to go to school. I could not believe it! I had decided that I would not preach about this organization this year and here was this person ASKING ME about it! So I told her and felt an immediate bond! I then invited her to lunch with Gail and me at Isabel's. It was so nice to walk over together and get to know her a bit....and then for Gail to join us. We were able to talk more openly about women's issues for a while before Jerry and two other hikers, Julie and Steve joined us.
We enjoyed lunch at this little restaurant filled with plants and pretty decorations. The hiking group was very tired after an extremely demanding hike of rock climbing and steep, dangerous trails at Cerro Fortin. Jerry would not return again although he did not fall as others did.
We enjoyed walking and talking with Gail for a while longer, discussing hikes and restaurants we will go to together! Gail will be leaving at the end of January for Ecuador for three weeks, on a bird watching expedition. She is very excited because of the amazing birds to be found!
Cynthia moved to Oaxaca from Washington D.C. in March, after auctioning and giving away to family most of her belongings! Gail is tired of the responsibility of her condo in Victoria although she loves the location across from Beacon Hill Park. Some hikers with Jerry moved here from Alberta, also selling all their belongings. They are much younger so plan to work for ten years and then retire early - the woman was in banking but is now working on a unversity degree online; her husband works in the oil industry so they are hoping he is able to get a job for $250,000 a year in the Middle East!
We arrived home to find my clothes dry from the warm sun that i had washed and hung in the morning!

Lunes in Oaxaca

The morning is cold, especially in our apartment. But we know that soon the sun will warm us as we walk to the OLL - Oaxaca Lending Library - a hub for English speaking visitors especially, but all who wish to visit
For 3 months membership, we pay 265 pesos (about $22.00 at today's exchange rate).

Jerry volunteers to work in the cafe for 3 hours on Mondays which has given him - and us - the opportunity to make new friends and feel more a part of the community of English-speaking residents and visitors.
Alan Gunderson is selling Thai food and giving out flyers about a tour to Xalapa that his wife, Teri, will lead, an occasional Oaxacan vendor wanders in, Oaxacans and visitors enjoy using the computers, meeting for intercambios (speaking Spanish part of the time, English for the rest) and perusing the stacks of 32,000 books and many DVDs to borrow. Barry, a permanent resident originally from Los Angeles, tells us about the New Year's Party and Fundraiser, costing 300 pesos each, at the gorgeous newly built house of Jan and Pierre.  Barry works very hard with many of the library devotees to keep the bills paid and the library functioning. There are many fundraisers so we must pick and choose. Jerry and I also want to be generous in our support but we are sponsoring three children to attend school and have a family to help, besides charities at home. But Barry is a good salesman - "this is our most important function and it includes a dinner, unlike the Solstice party at 200 pesos!"
I then went into the stacks, perusing the books about Oaxaca.  I found 5 that I am interested in and Jerry is borrowing The Help, which I will read when he finishes. Thanks to Barb, who invited me to go to the movie, it  will be more intriguing to read the book.

Later, i assembled gifts for our wonderful friends, Mafer, Gabriel, Emilio and Luisa.  We were invited to dinner and a birthday party at their home! How special to find that Mafer and Gabriel's parents were invited also!

It is Tuesday. I went up to the roof this morning to wash and hand some clothes in the warm ahhhhh! sunshine. Now it is time to leave now for the library - a lecture and slide show about Oaxacan women, organized by a presenter from Portland State University who is doing research here.  Then to Isabel's, one of our favorite restaurants to see Gail Schacter, from Victoria, and catch up with her life since we saw her last in February.Jerry left early this morning to go hiking with a group led by Willy, who joined the hikes he and Joy planned last year.